Pretty pastel lids at Badgley Mischka (left) and Costello Tagliapietra
WHAT: Finally, a bona fide, dyed-in-the-wool seasonal trend. For beauty observers, powdery pastels are the very quintessence of Spring fashion, right up there alongside the perennial bloom of boldly painted lips.
This year, the Lincoln Center presentations saw several designers opting for an ultra-feminine sweep of eye colour – most going right up to the brow bone for a contemporary spin on an '80s look.
At Costello Tagliapietra, Robert Tagliapietra and Jeffrey Costello reconfigured their signature plaid into abstract Impressionist swirls, and had models to match – lids were dappled with the softest of lime and lavender. Over at Marc by Marc Jacobs, the girls were given matte blue shadow iced over with a silvery shimmer, the strong eyes acting as a dramatic counterpoint to the hypnotic geometric prints of the collection.
SEEN AT: Badgley Mischka, Costello Tagliapietra, Marc by Marc Jacobs, MM6 Maison Martin Margiela, Zang Toi
Seeing blue at Zang Toi (left) and Marc by Marc Jacobs
HOW TO WEAR: The amusing thing about pastel shades is how both ends of the age spectrum seem to gravitate towards it – you're likely to see the very young and the very old piling on pale shadow!
While we're usually advocates of neutrals for everyday wear, pastels are a fun way of adding colour to your face without going full-on neon. Here are some ways you can brighten up your makeup kit without veering into garish territory:
1. Prime time. Pearly pastels tend to have finely milled reflective optics in them, which can gather in fine lines and make dry lids appear crepey. Paler shades also rub off faster than most, and can appear unflatteringly ashy on darker complected skin. Always apply a good eye cream and primer under your pastels, so the pigments stay true to shade.
2. Two become one. If you're conservative, do what we do and use your usual taupes and tans as a base for experimentation. Use the palest of peach as a brow highlighter. Sweep one layer of coral or pink above your crease, then blend lightly upwards for a flirty hint of colour.
3. Black out. Girly pastel makeup demands an adult edge that only black can give. Balance out sugary shades with a jolt of inky liquid liner – wing the tips out, if you like. Lashings of black mascara will also pop against pale lids, and lend your look a modish, retro-modern feel.