Not only were the colours on display decidedly muted, there was no cheery bright spring hue spotted amongst the blacks, navy blues and army greens, prints were a marked absence too.
Instead creative director Tomas Maier focused on material. Talking of the collection Maier said, “The collection is about freshness, both in terms of material and technique.” The material in question was a special fabric of cotton woven with copper. The unique fabric resulted in looks that didn’t flounce down the runway like most of the lightweight creations seen elsewhere but moved deliberately with each step the models took.
But what truly was showcased in every look was the craftsmanship behind each drape, pleat, ruffle and frill that tied Maier’s collection together. This play of material upgraded what would have been otherwise ordinary full skirts and plain dresses into pieces with a distinct luxurious edge. A shirtdress and shirt and pencil skirt combination stood out in particular with their clever tailoring.
Model Matilda Lowther stormed down the catwalk in a frilled army green dress. This update of the frilly dress was sophisticated and structured, and our favourite look from the show, with the shirts worn kimono-style with oversized and cuffed sleeves a close second.
Later in the show, the draping, pleating and frills took a break and a force of rah-rah took over with mohair fringe and metallic embellishments for the final looks. This disco influence however proved to be short-lived as Maier closed the show with a dress with a glorious ruffled bib.
Minimalistic accessories accompanied the looks – the shoes were slingbacks with a pointed tip while the mainly structured top-handled frame bags provided contrast to the relaxed draping.
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