IMAGE: Yi Lu/Corbis Images
I don’t believe I’m the only one who gets confused with skincare steps. We all know that you start with a cleanser and somewhere along the line end with a moisturiser. As a rule of thumb, always apply the most water-based product in each category first, before proceeding to creamier oil-based versions. But if you’re still confused about what goes where, I decode the most commonly used products and the steps in which to slather them on.
STEP 1: Cleansing
If you use an all-in-one cleanser, you can skip this entire paragraph. But for the adventurous, always start with an oil-based cleanser before you move on to your water-based ones (this includes foams, gels and everything in between). Oil-based cleaners have a lower density and they also work to sweep the dirt and grime off the surface of your skin ─ giving water-based cleansers an easier time to clean up after.
STEP 2: Lotions, toners, essences, and the works
From toners to essence and thermal waters, this second step is the most confusing of any skincare regime. The products that fall into this category are those that help to clean off cleansing residue while prepping your skin for future products. Toners and watery lotions are the most common feature in this step, but essences, thermal waters, and softeners fall here as well.
As a rule of thumb, use your toner or lotion first as these help to prep your skin for future products. Once that is done, you can begin layering your thermal waters and softeners, always following the guidelines of water-based items before oil.
STEP 3: Masks
For the occasional pick-me-up, masks work to give your skin an added boost. I usually apply face masks after step 2, as my skin is well-prepped to receive nutrients. The only exception to this rule is if you are using a sleeping mask or a detoxifier (clay masks fall into this category); sleeping masks should be used at the end of your regime, while detoxifiers should be used after your face is cleansed (so your toner and lotion can sweep off any clay residue!)
Otherwise, when you’re using a regular mask, remember to pat the excess essence into your face before going back to your regime.
STEP 4: Eye Cream
I like to apply my eye creams here, before my fingers get filled with face creams. After all, I wouldn’t want moisturisers to be in the sensitive areas around my eyes. Rich creams can cause problems such as milia seeds, so make sure your hands are free from oily facial products when dabbing on your eye creams. Alternatively, you can apply this product as at the last step of your facial regime; just make sure your hands are clean!
STEP 5: Serums
My favourite part of the entire regime, serums hold the highest amount of active ingredients for your face. If you have more than one serum, be sure that you apply the water-based option first, then layer on creamy serums after. If you are mixing an oil into your serum, massage into your face and let it sit for five minutes before proceeding to the next step. As oil can make it difficult for water-based moisturisers to enter the skin, so it is vital to give it sufficient time for full absorption
STEP 6: Spot Treatments
Hyperpigmentation or acne? If certain areas need more attention, spot treatments can be slotted in here. Spot treatments are often creamier than serums but not as thick as moisturisers. Applying them now will ensure optimum absorption, increasing the efficacy of the products. If you’re worried that your moisturiser will “smear” the spot treatment all over your face, just give it time to absorb.
STEP 7: Moisturisers
Slather on your creamy moisturisers and emulsions here. Likewise, if you have more than one moisturiser, be sure to apply the more liquid one first. Applying it the other way round may make your water-based moisturiser sit on your skin (clogging pores in the process!).
Once that is done, sunscreen or sunblock can follow in the day, and the occasional sleeping mask for the night.
You might be wondering, “If I’m applying all the water-based products before the oil-based in each step, wouldn’t that mean that the water-based products in the next step get obstructed?”. Not necessarily. Companies create facial products with the knowledge that they are a part of a regime, so products are made to accommodate this process; for example, serums absorb into your skin faster than moisturisers.
So even if you apply a milky serum before a water-based moisturiser, the creamy serum will most probably absorb into your skin faster than the moisturiser. I’ve tried and tested this out over the years, and it has always been true for me!