Bottega Veneta’s Autumn Winter 2012/13 collection was all about precision as its creative director Tomas Maier sent long, sharp silhouettes, nipped-in waists, narrow shoulders and skinny sleeves down the Milan Fashion Week runway.
Although the overall line was slim, like other labels the hips were slightly emphasised in line with the overall resurgence of the peplum shape, particularly in the cut of fitted jackets and as additions to columnar evening gowns.
In dark shades of black, maroon, sea blues like Bering and tourmaline and forest green, the collection was brightened with plum, mauve, teal and burnt orange that just added to the overall feel of restrained indulgence.
Texture came from the tight-woven crepes and Japanese velvets set against compact wools; sequins, beads and metallic thread add more three-dimensionality and richness to the clothes.
Bottega Veneta’s key accessories came in softer leathers than previously, with compact hand-carried bags of woven and passamaneria techniques. The stand-out shape being a long, unstructured but framed clutch bag. Boots and shoes were low-heeled; with mary-janes coming in vibrant shades and covered in embroidery.
Maier’s niche custom jewellery moved away from previous seasons’ blackened metals to a super-shiny polished sterling silver or white gold set with rock crystal, agate, and pale semi-precious stones.
“We took a very direct approach to the body this season,” says Maier. “The look is covered up and the materials are virtually impenetrable, yet the effect is powerfully physical.”
The overall look of the collection has a feeling of 1940s film noir and a vague military influence; a tightly buttoned-up primness which is the opposite of the more elaborate, highly embellished Bottega Veneta Spring Summer 2012 collection.
Bottega Veneta boutiques are located at ION Orchard, #01-04A, 2 Orchard Turn, Tel: 6238 0020; Ngee Ann City, Level 2, Takashimaya, 391 Orchard Road, Tel: 6738 2380 and Changi Airport terminals. Go to www.bottegaveneta.com for more information.