As the Autumn Winter 2014 ready-to-wear shows continue in the French capital, we take a look at some of the most remarkable presentations from the second day of Paris fashion week, highlighting trends spotted.
From left: Damir Doma ©AFP PHOTO / PATRICK KOVARIK, Guy Laroche ©AFP PHOTO / MIGUEL MEDINA, Dries Van Noten ©AFP PHOTO / FRANCOIS GUILLOT
Damir Doma
The Croatian-born designer presented an Autumn Winter 2014 collection that was all about contrasts, pairing airy and ethereal pieces with ones in wool and other heavy materials. Holes, cutouts and transparent fabrics were among the most common themes, as seen in a number of dresses and sweaters with small circular holes.
Guy Laroche
Very feminine, the latest collection from the French couturier also included a few transparent fabrics, along with thick satiny and glossy fabrics in black or in autumnal shades such as army green, burnt orange or eggplant. There were a number of voluminous pieces, although the waists were more apparent than at certain other shows. Among the most remarkable pieces in the collection was a dress in transparent black tulle decorated with black dots, worn over a black high-waist brief.
Dries Van Noten
Much more colourful than the other shows of the day, the Belgian designer's presentation offered a lighthearted moment of fun. Here once again, the tailoring was ample and generous, as seen in flowing long skirts. The prints in this collection wowed the gallery: pink and black or yellow and black stripes were seen alongside large floral prints in orange and blue, or pink and grey. As usual Dries Van Noten does not hesitate to explore unexpected combinations, and the result is very satisfying.
From left: Rochas ©AFP PHOTO / MIGUEL MEDINA, Alexis Mabille ©AFP PHOTO / BERTRAND GUAY, Gareth Pugh © AFP PHOTO / PATRICK KOVARIK,Vionnet ©AFP PHOTO / FRANCOIS GUILLOT
Alexis Mabille
Mabille showed plenty of Swarowski crystal-embellished pieces that took their cues both from sportswear and classic tailoring. He also used yards of lace-embroidered sheer silk (inserted into pieces as fluid panels and worn on its own as transparent pants). Plaid wraps and double-breasted coats and jackets also featured.
Rochas
Alessandro Dell'Acqua's debut also went full-on with the gemstones, which appeared all over shoes and clothes. Coloured leather gloves also featured sparkling crystalline growths which cropped up too on the skirt seams. The collection also went heavy on the metallics, while outerwear options included oversized coats in fur and wool.
Gareth Pugh
Pugh's models had an alien aspect with white powder around the eyes and on their fingers, and hair tied up in space-age nets. There was also a retro-sci-fi vibe emanating from the Jodorowsky-esque hats and twisted one-piece trouser-boots. Colours were restrained with plenty of white and cream looks, all-over metallics, and transparent PVC overlays. The animal pelt outerwear was where Pugh hit his stride, "It's shearling, but not as we know it".
Vionnet
The collection focused on Valenki felted wool that was patchworked with Matisse-like cut out flower shapes and tulip illustrations. There were also lots of soft knit dresses, sweaters and pants, and the wool effect was carried to outerwear with a cable-knit effect appearing on what looked like leather bomber jackets. Goga Ashkenazi's team also added fur, pleats and pinstripes to the mix. - AFP RELAXNEWS